Knightrous Wedge: The Vertical Slice – Part 3

Sent the Hardox 500 uprights off to Glen to have 30mm holes bored into them for the weapon shaft bushes to fit Then tack welded the assembly back onto the chassis for alignment.

Started making an MDF template for the side armour/brace. It’s an awkward shape.

First one cut from yet more Hardox 500. A few errors in the temeplate will require a bit of gap filling with the welder, but that happens Razz

Closer but the gaps are pretty noticeable from here…

Both sides cut out, aligned into place and tack welded.

And once again a quick reminder on where things should go….

Knightrous Wedge: The Vertical Slice – Part 2

While everyone was having the pleasure of competing at RoboWars Brisbane, I had to settle for a long weekend in the garage.

Have to start some where I guess.

Mocked up a hub + pulley for the weapon.

Using some offcuts to position things to roughly where they will go.

Shaped some MDF for a rough template to transfer into Hardox 500

Hardox 500 parts with a temporary noodle shaft (Till I can drill a 30mm hole in the Hardox Sad )

Backyard Brawl – 08/06/2014

This was an small backyard event using the QRSC arena in a 3×3 configuration instead of the usual 4×4. There was no roof, so spinners were told to stay home.
Knightrous Wedge was slapped together in a hurry the day before, taking the remains of Schmackhed and adapting the Dewut drives from Farmboy/Annoying Box Rush to the rear. Lastly, I welded a bit of stainless bar in a v shape to the top to allow it to drive upside down, self right and to push other bots with.

I didn’t take any photos during the event, so I’ve only got a couple of screen shots from the videos. Thanks to M&J for putting the fights up on youtube.

Fight 1: Aussie Battler
A nifty lifter and grabber robot built by Phil. Not an overly fast robot, but Phil is a consistent driver and just waits till he can make a move. Luckily I was able to keep wedging Aussie Battler and push him into the walls before eventually putting him into the ‘pit’.
Winner: Knightrous Wedge

Fight 2: Mental Bot
A boxy pushy bot built by Tim.
This fight wasn’t exciting, as it mainly consisted of both bots dancing around each other and lining up. However, I was consistently doing all the wedging and pushed Mental Bot around the arena. Towards the end of the fight, Mental Bot was having drive issues and ended up stuck in the pit.
Winner: Knightrous Wedge

Fight 3: Monkey
A boxy pushy bot built by Scott, who was hosting the event.
This fight was a lot of dancing, Monkey was a little faster and even when wedged could drive off relatively easy due to 4WD. We both made a few trips into the pit and drive back out, I managed to also get a few decent pushes, sending Monkey into the wall each time. The fight went the full 3 minutes and the fight ended up being given to me.
Winner: Knightrous Wedge

Fight 4: Wanda
An axle bot with fast winch motor drives, built by Jules. Normally Wanda has a big thwackbot tail on it, but Jules arrived at this event with a couple of fork type wedge attachments. This fight was mostly spent chasing after Wanda, trying to wedge it so I could get it’s forks stuck in the hoopty and then push it into a wall. The match went the full distance and was given in our favor.
Winner: Knightrous Wedge

Fight 5: RUMBLE!!!! 
All working robots jump in on this fight and kick the crap out of each other for 8 minutes! Nothing left to do then show the video.



Goodbye Schmackhed, hello KNIGHTROUS WEDGE

and it’s back………… Fresh rebuild, fresh name.


Dug this old thing out, zip tied in a 5S 4000mAh lipol, a pair of BotBitz 85A ESC’s and bolted a pair of Dewalts onto it (stolen straight out of Annoying Box Rush). All done in a hastily 4hrs so I could make it to a local no spinners event.

I bolted on an alloy plate to the back and mounted the DeWuts to it since I couldn’t drill through the Hardox 450…

Deliciously powerful Dewuts that have already proven to be good.

Only after 8 years, has the drive train finally become reliable and it’s actually won something. Only real issue is, speed hasn’t picked up despite having the dewalts in it, but it’s purely a case of no traction. So while the weight distrobution makes the wedge uber effective, it just doesn’t have enough weight over the wheels to make it super fast.

It’s ~1kg underweight, so with a smaller battery, a couple of tweaks, I might actually be able to get the weight down enough to build that lifter/clamper.

Check out my event report here -> CLICKITY CLICK


Schmackhed – Ressurected…

Well with the need for a test mule for the 42MM gear motors, I decided to dig this old beast out from the rusting steel pile and resurrect it Smile

Having an indestructible shell that survived hard assed spinners like Jolt and Rapture with nothing more then paint scratches, coupled with a wedge that is so low it shaves mdf like a planer, it was really only ever let down by the drive system. So with these new gearmotors showing great promise, maybe this time we will see the full potential of Schmackhed.

The new drive will be some BotBitz 20V 42MM 14:1 gear motors on 22.2v (6S LiPol) with Colson 4″ x 2″ wheels.

I’m moving back to a tubular drive pod again, so I decided to give the motors the best chance of survival and add some support bearings at the face to help take the load.

Motors with the bearings fitted.

The hubs I mad for the wheels.

The 4X2″ colson wheels  being fitted with their hubs

The tube cut out of some scrap and the motors temporarily pushed in to work out the wheel base.

A quick dummy fit to see how it all lines up.

This tab will be welded to the wedge and will allow the motor wires to exit the pod.

The pod was then welded on.

Looking more like a robot again

I then started to mess around with ideas for fitting the electronics in differently, but I’m not sure if it will work the way I want.

I ended up going back to the old tray and rearranged the components to all fit.

The motor wires snake in along the back near the batteries.

The tab over handing from the drive pod actually locks the rear of the electronics bay in.

Butt shot.

Next up, some paint

Trying to be fancy here.

Some masking tape to make some GT racing stripes

Lol, that turned out… ok.

Probably should have sprayed the red further around on the tube. Oh well.

All together and looking spiffy

MBX 2.0 – Part 5

Epically behind at the moment, still haven’t got the wiring done as I’ve had to make a few changes to things. Was having an issue with a decent idea for mounting the batteries and electronics, which is why I haven’t progressed much on wiring the sucker up.

However, have finally settled on an idea to mount everything and I might use the idea for other robots in the future. Basically got my hands on a bunch of high density closed cell foam (Same as the blue camping mattresses everyone uses, but thicker) and will be layering it to fill the entire interior of the robot. The only things that won’t be mounted in this foam will be the drive train and the whyachi switch.

Epic rats nest wiring, will just duct tape most of it to the motors and jam the lid on to keep it in place.

Spinning, but not translating too well, so working on what the problem is, one drive has started to bind, looks like a bearing block might have shifted in an impact. Last resort will be to retro fitting everything back into the old 1 wheel version and run 40v to get the speed and spin up. to a decent level.

Eventually I found out why the drive on one side locked up. A collar on the pinion gear that holds the gear from popping out of the bearing broke off and went into the armature and the jammed the whole show up. Dinged up a few of the leaded plates on the armature, so I have removed the motor and left the mountings and the bearing block to run the wheel as a castor. This seems to work fine when spinning, and works just like the 1 wheel version, but spins up on the spot instead of eliptically wobbling around till it gets up to speed. Now that I’m back to 1 drive motor, the voltage is going up to 39.6v like in the testing after RoboWars.

Found half the problem with the translation not working, I found that somehow the model programming for MBX in the spectrum had activated some wierd ass mixing of several channels, and I couldn’t remove it (I can’t find the manual to read how), so I made a new model settings for it and it seems to have fixed half that problem. Just need to work on calibrating the parameters of the accelerometer now to get the heading LED to work correctly.

Things are looking less bleak, so hopefully tomorrow I’ll have it running right, I’ll bring the old version just in case

MBX 2.0 – Part 4

The motors and wheels are now all mounted to the base plate.

Made the first tooth today, it’s made out of 8mm thick car leaf spring. Will bolt them onto the shell with 2 or 4 x M12 8.8 bolts.


Drives are all done now, working on the meltyboard tonight, going to load the new code and start wiring it up. Need to work out if I’m going to have enough space for 2 x 10cell packs in parallel and still fit all the electronics, i’d prefer two packs in it because with the 1 motor on 12cells got the batteries pretty warm after 3mins of testing, so 2 motors might just be too much for 1 string of cells. I’d never have thought I’d see the day I’d have 20 x A123 cells in a featherweight

MBX 2.0 – Part 3

Had epic dreams of using the oxy at work to bend it all into shape, ended up just slicing it up into sections and welding it. Not one side is at the same angle, but that’s normal for me Laughing Will take my time welding it now to avoid taking all the temper out the hardox, and will cut the base plate to suit it after that.

Shell welded up completely, base plate cut out and hammer press fitted inside the shell. Will weld in some tabs to bolt the base to the shell tomorrow. Will mount the internals during the week and move onto wiring it up

MBX 2.0 – Part 2

New version fits inside a 350 x 350 octagon, which is surprisingly small even when compared to the old test frame which was 260 x 370.

Comparing the old with the new

Another angle, will end up about the same height, maybe a fraction less

Close up, still plenty of space to add various things and make changes in the future.

According to CAD, a full 3.25mm hardox shell would be 7.2kg, just a fraction too heavy, replacing the top lid with 1mm stainless brings it down to a healthy 5.4kg, which leaves a good 1kg for some nasty teeth to weld on