Epically behind at the moment, still haven’t got the wiring done as I’ve had to make a few changes to things. Was having an issue with a decent idea for mounting the batteries and electronics, which is why I haven’t progressed much on wiring the sucker up.
However, have finally settled on an idea to mount everything and I might use the idea for other robots in the future. Basically got my hands on a bunch of high density closed cell foam (Same as the blue camping mattresses everyone uses, but thicker) and will be layering it to fill the entire interior of the robot. The only things that won’t be mounted in this foam will be the drive train and the whyachi switch.
Epic rats nest wiring, will just duct tape most of it to the motors and jam the lid on to keep it in place.
Spinning, but not translating too well, so working on what the problem is, one drive has started to bind, looks like a bearing block might have shifted in an impact. Last resort will be to retro fitting everything back into the old 1 wheel version and run 40v to get the speed and spin up. to a decent level.
Eventually I found out why the drive on one side locked up. A collar on the pinion gear that holds the gear from popping out of the bearing broke off and went into the armature and the jammed the whole show up. Dinged up a few of the leaded plates on the armature, so I have removed the motor and left the mountings and the bearing block to run the wheel as a castor. This seems to work fine when spinning, and works just like the 1 wheel version, but spins up on the spot instead of eliptically wobbling around till it gets up to speed. Now that I’m back to 1 drive motor, the voltage is going up to 39.6v like in the testing after RoboWars.
Found half the problem with the translation not working, I found that somehow the model programming for MBX in the spectrum had activated some wierd ass mixing of several channels, and I couldn’t remove it (I can’t find the manual to read how), so I made a new model settings for it and it seems to have fixed half that problem. Just need to work on calibrating the parameters of the accelerometer now to get the heading LED to work correctly.
Things are looking less bleak, so hopefully tomorrow I’ll have it running right, I’ll bring the old version just in case