Been busy with a whole bunch of life changes (Moved to a bigger house, got rid of the workshop) and shit which lead me to being extremely slack and abusive to the ZZW30 this year.
It was over due a service in April and I’m only getting around to doing it now in September….
10000+ km over due… Toyota tough thank fuck.
New garage is a bit small, so needed to shuffle things around to do the service.
International Hoist Appreciation Day!
And done! (Yeah, I forgot to take more photos….)
Just finished some new Federal RS-PRO tires to the ZZW30 and it’s due an alignment, so headed off to my favor suspension guy.
Up on the hoist, checking all the joints and bushes as well, now aligning it to where we put it last time.
RS-PRO’s have different tread pattern to the RS-RR which seems to have cured the crazy levels of road noise.
With the alignment all done, it drives a lot nicer and is confidence inspiring when being spirited.
Till next time.
I was looking to make an interstate trip, but the ZZW30 has pathetic lights, which left me a little worried about righting it off if I was to have an altercation with a Kangaroo.
I found one of these nifty Narva LED light bars with a number plate bracket and the matching Narva wiring loom at my local AutoOne.
Perfect for this little car where I’m not really wanting to drill holes for a light.
Bracket goes on behind the number plate and use the standard number plate bolts to hold it on.
The LED Light bar bolts to that and the hardware side of it is done.
Grabbed the wiring loom kit and hacked it into the car, lazily pinched a trigger wire from the high beam circuit.
I missed getting some photos before taking a trip, but the light bar is insanely good and allows a good 250+m of clear visibility up the road, great for spotting wildlife well in advance of getting close to them. I’ll add some photos and videos to this post at a later date.
While driving my Toyota MR-S today, the SMT light popped on and continued to glare at me as I drove. No buzzer or issues shifting, which is odd for the SMT which usually has a melt down when there is something wrong. I made the trip home and plugged in the Techstream cable, a P0703 error displayed (Torque converter or brake switch).
If you’re an owner of an MR-S, you will likely have heard of the the brake lights getting stuck on (even when you turn the car off, so people end up with a flat battery randomly), this is caused by a little plastic grommet crumbling on the brake pedal and allowing the brake switch to remain on. This appears to annoy the SMT since it thinks you’re driving down the road with your foot on the brake. There are a bunch of forum posts about this and how to fix it, but all the ones I saw had pictures lacking detail or real instructions. So here is my guide.
What you will need!
– 14mm spanner / ratchet / socket
– small pointy nose pliers
– A M6x16 Countersunk bolt and 2x matching nuts or the genuine replacement part (90541-06036)
– a spanner that matches the 2x nuts for the M6 bolt (should be an 10mm)
– a phone light or torch you can use to see.
Step 1
Use the 14mm spanner / ratchet / socket to remove the drivers seat, you’re gonna need the space to lay upside down in the foot well unless you are a professional contortionist. (No picture sorry). Two bolts at the front of the seat, two at the rear.
Step 2
Remove the brake pedal spring, unclip it from the pin end and let it dangle from the welded tab. This can easily be done with your hands.
Step 3
Remove the retaining clip from the pin using the pointy nose pliers.
Step 4
Push the pin out of the pedal by hand, there should be little effort to do this.
Step 5
With the pin out, the pedal can now float and it gives you around 10-15mm of space to move before it presses against the brake master. You can easily push the Toyota part in now or if you are doing the bolt method, pushing the pedal against the master will yield enough space to get the M6 countersunk bolt in (As seen in the small red box)
Step 6
If you’ve put the Toyota part in, go to step 7. If you’re using the bolt. You cannot get an Allen key into the bolt to tighten, so grab the head with the pointy nose pliers and thread the first nut on and tighten. Put the pilers onto the first nut and wind the second nut on and tighten.
Step 7
Reassemble everything!
Put the pin back in, put the clip in the pin, put the spring back onto the pin.
Step 8.
Refit your seat!
Enjoy having you brake lights turning off when they should.